2007 Audi A4
2007 Audi A4 questions and answers
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Q: How do you replace the brake light in a 2007 Audi A4?
I cannot figure out how to take off the brake light cover to do this. Please help! Thank you :)
A: if you have the owners manual, you should be able to find "bulb" in the index. I don't see an actual cover, it looks like the bulb holders are simple quarter turn holders.
Q: I have recently purchased a 2007 Audi A4 Quattro?
It is my first Audi and I noticed it hesitates when I take off at a traffic light etc. I brought it to the dealership and they said that is a normal Audi trait. They said when I take off I can put it in S (sport) to get a quicker pick up. I am concerned if I am pulling out in traffic because it feels like it is stalling. Yet it has not stalled and everything with it is great. FYI, it is an automatic. Has anyone had this occur?
A: if its the 2.0T its turbolag, i have the 1.8 L T and theres a bit of lag to the kick but its a normal aspect to turboed cars if it was a manual u could pop the clutch and takeoff with that quatro suspension :)
Q: 2007 Audi A4 Convertible Ambient Lighting?
I have a 2007 Audi A4 convertible. I hear that there should be a light in the headliner for ambient lighting, but I don't see one. Is this a sedan-only feature? Also, is there any way to improve the ambient lighting of my A4's cabin?
Thank you!
A: Try turning on the footlights to 100%. It worked for my Audi Q7.
Q: I have an 2007 Audi A4 Quattro. How often do I change oil?
I got my 15,000 mile service. I am at 19,000 miles. Should I change oil? The person I bought the car from said I don't need to change oil in between services. Is this true?
A: Oil Change Intervals
Few subjects generate as much debate on Usenet as the proper oil change interval. Since few people bother with oil analysis the debate centers on time and mileage.
Follow the Money
Unfortunately, there are market forces that have a vested interest in convincing vehicle owners to change their oil more often than necessary. The legal prey of these market forces have become convinced that they are purchasing "cheap insurance" or "peace of mind" by changing their oil more often than necessary. Complicating things is the fact that doing oil changes is one of the few do-it-yourself maintenance tasks that is still within the ability of the backyard mechanic to perform.
Recreational Oil Changing
The term "recreational oil changer" was coined to define people that change their oil far more than necessary because they actually enjoy doing it. It's easy to understand the psychology behind the recreational oil changing. It's the visceral feel of the tools, the victory when that old oil filter breaks free, the hot dirty oil pouring out, the joy of oiling of the gasket on the new filter, that new copper or fiber gasket on the drain plug, the clean clear oil going in, and the sense of accomplishment when you start the car, the oil light comes on for a moment, then goes out. For $8-10 in oil and parts, it's pretty cheap entertainment, but if people would be content to do it only when it provides some benefit to the vehicle it would be better.
The 3000 Mile Myth
The 3000 mile oil change interval has been pounded into people's heads for decades. It had a scientific basis when engines used non-multi-weight, non-detergent oil. It no longer has any scientific basis, but it is still being promoted by certain entities, most notably the oil change industry in the United States. This myth is also sometimes known as the "Cheap Insurance Myth."
The 3000 Mile Fact
There are still vehicles that need 3K oil changes, but it's not because the oil goes bad after 3K miles. One example is the Saturn S series. These vehicles have a timing chain system that is very sensitive to clean oil because oil pressure is used as hydraulic fluid to ratchet up the timing chain tensioner. If varnish forms in the timing chain tensioner bore then this system can fail and the chain will become loose and eventually break. Dealers have gone as far as tearing out the normal service schedule (6000 miles) and leaving only the severe service schedule. If your engine is destroyed (under warranty) by a failed timing chain then the dealer will legitimately request evidence of oil changes. Unfortunately this problem usually won't manifest itself during the warranty period.
The Dark Oil Myth
Dark oil does not indicate the need for an oil change. The way modern detergent motor oil works is that minute particles of soot are suspended in the oil. These minute particles pose no danger to your engine, but they cause the oil to darken. A non-detergent oil would stay clearer than a detergent oil because all the soot would be left on the internal engine parts and would create sludge. If you never changed your oil, eventually the oil would no longer be able to suspend any more particles in the oil and sludge would form. Fortunately, by following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval, you are changing your oil long before the oil has become saturated. Remember, a good oil should get dirty as it does it's work cleaning out the engine. The dispersant should stop all the gunk from depositing in the oil pan.
The only real way to determine whether oil is truly in need of changing is to have an oil analysis performed. Since most people don't want to bother with this, it's acceptable to err heavily on the safe side and simply follow the manufacturer's recommended change interval for severe service. There are still a few cars that specify 3K intervals for severe service, but not many. If you look at countries other than the U.S., the oil recommended change interval is much higher than even the normal interval specified by vehicle manufacturers in the U.S.
Severe Service versus Normal Service
Each manufacturer specifies what constitutes normal and severe service. Generally, severe service consists of operating the vehicle in a very muddy or dusty areas (because dust particles get through the air filter and contaminate the oil more quickly), operating the vehicle in a very hot areas (heat breaks down oil more quickly), using the vehicle only for short trips in cold weather (the moisture in the oil never gets vaporized), or using the vehicle for towing or when carrying a car-top carrier. You'll often see claims such as "everyone falls into the severe service category," but these claims are untrue (follow the money and see who's making these claims). If you primarily do freeway driving in moderate weather you do not fall into the severe service category. If you're in doubt, the best way to see if you fall into the severe service category is to have an oil analysis done at the mileage of the severe service interval. Many people just like to play it safe and follow the severe service schedule, which is fine, but there is no benefit in changing the oil sooner than the severe service schedule states.
Maintenance Schedules Vary by Country
Different countries have different maintenance schedules, even for the same car. This fact has been the cause of long argument threads on Usenet. How could the exact same car need a different service schedule simply because of where the vehicle is used? At least part of the reason is due to the differences in fuel. For example, the U.S. and Canada has fuel with high sulphur levels which can cause more oil contamination. Japanese fuel has very low sulphur levels. Europe is in-between. Some of the newer engine technology (direct injection) which raises fuel economy, requires low sulphur fuel. Of course the oil companies have a vested interest in not lowering the sulphur as it adds to refining cost and enables more fuel efficient engines. Since "Big Oil" is in bed with the un-elected president in the U.S., don't expect any action of lower sulphur fuel for a while in the United States. If Al Gore is re-elected in 2004, and the Supremes don't simply ignore the election results again, then there is a chance for lower sulphur fuel in the U.S. beginning in 2005.
Oil change intervals with synthetic oil
Synthetic oils withstand higher temperatures before breaking down, and have more base stock and less viscosity modifiers. Synthetics wear out, become acidic, and eventually become saturated with suspended soot particles, just like regular oil. Again, an oil analysis is a good investment to determine the optimum oil change interval. Never exceed the manufacturer requirements for normal service.
Filter Change Interval
Back in the days of 3000 mile oil changes many manufacturers recommended filter changes only half as often because the filter did not become clogged with dirt at only 3000 miles. This was good advice back then, especially because with non-detergent motor oils a lot of the sludge remained stuck to internal engine parts rather than being carried in the oil to the filter. Nowadays the filter should be changed at every oil change. There are some people who believe so much in synthetic oil that they change filters without changing the oil. There's no harm in changing the filter without changing the oil, but there is no point in doing this.
Do-it-yourself versus paying someone to do it
Oil changes are pretty inexpensive when done at a reputable repair shop or dealer. Most dealers offer oil change specials that cost less than the quick-change oil places, and the dealers do a better job and use better filters. Where I live the dealers have very long service department hours including on Saturday (some on Sunday). The dealers also offer a time guarantee, generally that they'll get you in and out in less than 30 minutes or the next oil change is on them. Another advantage of having it done at a repair shop or dealer is that you have solid legal proof of the date and mileage when the oil change took place. My personal preference is to have the oil changed at a dealer during the warranty period. Edmunds has a page on secret warranties that states: "If you service your vehicle through an independent or aftermarket facility, what does the manufacturer owe you in terms of assistance? Manufacturers cannot control the quality of the parts used or work performed when you service your vehicle through aftermarket service facilities. Also remember that the treatment you receive as a customer has a great deal to do with you being a loyal customer to the dealer and the manufacturer." See: http://www.edmunds.com/advice/fiw/articles/43008/article.html .
If you change the oil yourself follow these guidelines (especially during the warranty period):
1. Buy the oil, filter (from the dealer), and drain plug gasket (if necessary) within a few days of the oil change (don't stock up during a sale). You want dated proof that you bought the supplies near the date of the oil change.
2. Keep a log book of your maintenance. Staple the receipts for the oil and filter into the book.
3. If you really want to be anal then take a dated photograph of the oil change being performed. Have the photos processed at a lab that dates the back of the prints. Stick the prints into the maintenance log.
None of this really proves that you changed the oil when you said you did, but it would be sufficient should the manufacturer challenge a warranty claim based on lack of oil changes.
Quick-Lube (and dealer) Problems to Watch Out For
1. SAE30 oil. Some quick-lube places have been known to offer advertised specials that use SAE 30 oil, as opposed to 5W30 or 10W30. Pay the extra for the proper oil, or better yet avoid merchants that try to pull this kind of thing because it's an indicator that they are less than honest.
2. Trying to use the wrong oil because it's what they have in bulk. Insist on the oil that is specified on your filler cap and in your manual.
3. Pumping the oil out through the dipstick hole instead of removing the drain plug. I came across this gem when I asked if I needed to bring my own copper drain plug gasket. They said that they didn't remove the drain plug to drain the old oil. This was the Oil Changer location at Kifer & Wolfe in Sunnyvale, California. Pumping the oil out through the dipstick hole is a terrible way to get the old oil out because it leaves a lot of junk in the bottom of the oil pan. This was a long time ago and maybe they've changed their ways since then.
4. Selling unneeded and overpriced services such as engine flushes.
5. Selling overpriced, and often low quality, parts such as wiper blades and washer fluid, PCV valves, thermostats, etc. Never let a quick-lube place do any mechanical work on your vehicle.. They do no use journeyman mechanics.
6. Using poor quality filters. You really want to bring your own filter, from the dealer, with you when you go to a quick-lube place. They may take $1 or $2 off the price if you do this but don't count on it.
7. If you have a vehicle that actually still has Zerk fittings to lubricate then be sure that they actually lubricate these fitting. Most cars no longer require lubrication but some trucks still do.
8. Do not let a quick-lube place change or add any fluids other than oil. No transmission fluid, no brake fluid, no power steering fluid, no antifreeze, no oil additives, no fuel additives. It is just too easy for them to use the wrong fluid and cause permanent damage to your vehicle.
For some horror stories about Jiffy Lube see: http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/jiffy_lube.htm . I think I'll pass on them!
Q: Is the 2007 Audi A4 a good car? (USED) I heard Audi's are unreliable and break down a lot? Is it true?
I might buy a used Audi A4...
A: Yes, they have pretty poor reliability ratings.
My friends traded his in after many, many electrical issues.
Q: Whats a better car 2007 Audi A4 or 2007 BMW 3 series?
Im buying a new car and im debating between these 2.
A: BMW 3 series...
Q: I scraped my passenger door on my Audi A4 2007 on a pole. Anyone have an idea of how much it will be to fix?
I scraped the door and I am in college and don't know if I can afford a new door. The scrape went down to the metal. Does anyone (preferably someone who has had a similar problem or does body work on cars) know what the range to have the dent popped out and have the door painted would cost me?
A: call your insurance... maybe it can go under your comp. coverage and the deductible would be less.
a good body shop should be able to paint match the door area only and repair it. Don't wait to long because it could start to rust if the paint is down to metal.
Q: whats a better car between a used 2007 audi A4 and a new 08 vw?
A: audi by far..vw's are crap!
Q: 2007 Audi A4 Maintanence?
I am thinking about buying an 2007 Audi A4. I keep getting warned by people that they break down and are expensive to fix. I currently have a Chrylser Crossfire, which uses all the mercedes SLK parts, and its very expensive to maintain, 180 dollars for oil changes, 100 dollars for headlight change, etc. If I get a new Audi With a warranty on it, should it be fine. What are they most common things that go out and whats the normal price?
A: Actually, they have a program where you can add the cost of usual maintenance to the loan. They started offering that this year because 06 was the last year they offered free maintenance for the first 4 years /36k miles. It was bumper to bumper brakes, clutch and all.
I thought Audi's oil changes were expensive!!! They run $75. I believe the labor rate is $120 per hour. The upside is that the oil only has to be changed every 10K miles by factory warranty. That is of course if you go to the dealership for oil changes which I do. I haven't had any issues with bulbs as I didn't see the need for xenon bulbs which will run you 100+ any where. I have had my car (A4 quattro manual) since April 06.
The only problem I have had is that the fuel line seems to loose pressure over night so I have to turn the key to get the pump to energize before I can start it. I have taken it in for service, but since it doesn't throw a code, they can't find the problem. My dealership has excellent customer service.
I generally don't keep cars past three years so I am not really worried about the issue.
My tires I get rotated at Discount tire for free because when I purchased the car, they allowed me to purchase the road hazard on each tire for $23. This includes rotation, balance and repair, as much as I like. I have used it once already to have tire replaced and rotate and balance tires every 5k miles, so it has paid for itself.
Q: Why is my new 2007 Audi A4 Quattro burning 1 quart of oil every 1500 miles?
It now has 8,000 miles and is burning through 1 quart of oil every 1500 or so miles. Audi says it is normal, but I have my doubts.
A: As far as I know you should be changing your oil every 3-6 thousand miles.
Also, are measuring from the time you change the oil to 1500 miles? Meaning that you don't run the engine before taking your first measurement? Some of your missing oil may be in the oil filter and stuff when you take your second measurement which may not have been there before.
Also, any oily areas under the hood? Valve covers and stuff can seep oil as you can read from this link http://www.carpartswholesale.com/cpw/valve_cover.html
You may not be burning oil after all.
Q: What type of oil does a 2007 Audi A4 use?
A: Mobil 1 0W-40. If you don't like Mobil, then basically just any fully synthetic 0w-40 will do.
Q: 2007 Audi A4 2.0T CVT. Do I need to idle the engine to cool down the turbo?
Hi, I just purchased the car mentioned above and I was just wondering whether I need to idle the engine for about 30 seconds after driving the car in order to cool down the turbo. Thanks.
A: Heat is the enemy of all turbos. If you have been horsing the engine then it is a good idea. Under normal driving conditions the turbo is continuously cooled by your coolant system. Older turbos were not liquid cooled and so they cracked from heat more quickly.
Enjoy your new car.
Q: I am thinking about purchasing a 2007 Audi A4 Cabrio Convertible. What is your opinion of the car?
A: very nice get the V6 for reliability and reduced maintenance needs the turbos are nice but you have added maintenance needs for the turbo and it will need more frequent oil changes etc. I don't know if the newer 2.0 turbo has the sludge issues that the old 1.8 had but i would go V6 anyway.
Q: what should i lease, a 2007 honda accord coupe 4-cyl or an 2007 audi a4 2.0t?
the lease deals are:
Audi $325/month, $2900 down, 24 month, 15K miles
Honda $275/month, $2300 down, 36 month, 12K miles
I like the A4 my wife likes the Accord better because of the $$$. Anyone have any pro's or cons on either model?
A: Well you're not comparing apples to apples. You should run 24/36 month scenarios with 12k/15k on both. Honestly you should only be running scenarios with the mileage you need or is just over what you will drive. There is nothing worse than writing a check for over mileage AND the keys at the end of the lease.
In either case both cars are under warranty while you lease them, so I'm not concerned with costs of repairs. Audi will include EVERYTHING even brakes and wipers during your lease. Honda will not, but scheduled maintenance is not expensive on Hondas.
How I would compare the two scenarios is that the Audi is going to cost you a total of $10,700 over the life of its lease, while the Honda will cost $12,200. I can only assume that the MSRP of the Audi is higher than the Honda, so based on this comparison, I prefer the Audi. It is a more expensive car that will cost me less over the life of the lease.
Plus who wouldn't want a luxury car...
Q: What's better, a 2007 Audi A4 3.2 with Quattro or a 2007 Volvo S40 T5 AWD?
I’m trying to decide what car would be best for driving around a small city located in the mountains of Colorado. These are two of my top choices.
A: just remember with a german car you get the current version of german quality and reliability which is to say less than poor, in the last 8 years or so german cars have been poor excuses for for reliable transport. VW being the worst with excessively lousy materials and poor design, especially plastic parts, [such as the required removal of everything across the front of some models to replace a timing belt, including headlamps grill ac condenser radiator cooling fans DON'T BREAK THE PLASTIC CORE SUPPORT and then still have to do the engine work] the a4 is nothing but a jetta with a funny headlamp switch. all volkswagon products need to go the way of renault . just leave and take your s***boxes with you. Volvo's are still holding up just fine and are still friendly to work on and fun to drive.